The word "glance" in French
Winner announced + the French word "marcotter"

The word for cheese + a giveaway!

Cover

Enter to win a copy of the excellent Mastering the Art of French Eating: simply name your favorite cheese, right here in the comments box. Bonne chance!

le fromage (froh-mazh)

    : cheese



Expression:

en faire tout un fromage = to make a big fuss out of nothing, to make a mountain out of a mole hill.

Audio File: Listen to Jean-Marc read the example sentence from Wikipedia:
Download MP3 or Wav file

Le terme français « fromage » dérive de l’ancien français « formage » ... (et) signifie : « ce qui est fait dans une forme ». The French word "cheese" comes from ancient French "formage" and means "that which is made into a shape."


A DAY IN A FRENCH LIFE...


We're in for a treat today as my good friend Ann Mah is here to talk to us about le fromage! After reading Ann's delicious memoir, I know we can trust this endearing guide to enlighten us in all things French culinary. Now let's hear what Ann has to say about a less charming host, one that lives and thrives on cheese...

Les Artisons

I learned the word "artison" while eating cheese in St-Etienne, France. Near the end of a lavish lunch, my host offered a groaning board of local fromages. He selected one, tapped some powder off its surface into a small glass bowl, and handed me a magnifying glass. I saw a bunch of crumbs moving constantly, tiny specks that sometimes jumped. “Ce sont des artisons,” — cheese mites — he told me. “Small spiders that live in the cheese.” It was completely absorbing and also a little repulsive.

Ever since that meal, my fascination with cheese mites has only grown. And so, on a recent visit to Paris, I visited one of my favorite fromagers — Michel Fouchereau at La Fromagerie d’Auteuil — to find out more about these microscopic creatures — also called cirons, in French — what they do, and why they’re (sometimes) dangerous.

Fouchereau who, as a Meilleur Ouvrier de France (best craftsman of France) is one of the most informative sources on fromage, thinks of cheese as an animal. “We raise it, age it, and sell it so it’s consumed at its peak,” he said.

Cheese mites, he explained, are microorganisms that exist everywhere — “even in a draft of air” — but they especially love the damp, cool atmosphere found in the cave d’affinage, or cheese-aging chamber. They flock to cooked, pressed cheeses like Comté, or Cantal, boring into the crust, moving steadily towards the softer center, leaving behind a floral, sweet flavor. If left to their own devices, the artisons will take over a cheese until it becomes inedible. Many hard cheeses are, in fact, treated to deter cirons — the rind of Parmesan, for example, is oiled; cheddar is traditionally wrapped in cloth.
 
Mimolette

There is one French cheese, however, that welcomes these microscopic creatures as part of its aging process: Mimolette. Produced in Lille, near the Belgian border, it’s a hard, orange cheese with a thick crust riddled with holes. Mimolette starts out like any old pressed cheese, but at one or two months old, it’s taken to a special chamber and inoculated with artisons. The microscopic creatures nibble relentlessly, burrowing into the crust, aerating the cheese, and dramatically reducing the mimolette’s bulk. The result is a dense, salty cheese, with earthy, sweet, almost caramel, undertones. Unfortunately, the excess of mites on Mimolette's surface is considered an allergen and health hazard by the FDA; in 2013 they banned the cheese from the United States. Happily, small imports are once again being discreetly allowed.
Brique-fermier
        The brique fermier is the infamous St-Etienne cheese

Because fromagers keep a large assortment of cheeses in their cave — soft cheeses (like Roquefort, Camembert, or goat), as well as hard cheeses (Comté, Cantal, Beaufort) — they never allow the mites to linger and proliferate. In fact, they wage a constant battle against the artisons, cleaning the floors and shelves of the cave of their dust-like presence, continuously wiping, turning, and brushing the cheeses. “They never stop nibbling,” Fouchereau said. “We tolerate them, allow them to gather and do their work. And then, we eliminate them.”


                                                               *    *    *
Author picAnn Mah is a journalist and the author of the novel Kitchen Chinese. Awarded a James Beard Foundation culinary scholarship in 2005 , Ann's articles have appeared in The New York Times, Condé Nast Traveler, the International Herald Tribune and the South China Morning Post among other publications. The wife of a U.S. diplomat, Mah currently splits her time between New York City and Paris. Visit www.annmah.net. Author photo by Katia Grimmer-Laversanne. 

Emmental
Did you enjoy Ann's story? If so, be sure to share with her your favorite cheese, here in the comments--and so enter to win a copy of her Mastering the Art of French eating. Now out in paperback!

Smokey and cheese

The label reads: Indication Geographic Protégée. Hmmm. Smokey wonders if this is why a heavy window separates him from his favorite snack.


Enter to Win The Book!
And you? What is your favorite cheese? Tell me here, in the comments section, and automatically enter to win a copy of Ann's Mastering the Art of French Eating. Click here to enter.

Laguiole knife
Looking for a super gift--around $30--for a Francophile? These Laguiole cheese knives dress up any cheese platter. We received ours as a wedding present 20 years ago and it is always a pleasure to add them to the plateau de fromage. Only three sets left for this colorful Provencal theme, shown above, but you'll find many more Laguiole serving knives here.

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For more online reading: The Lost Gardens: A Story of Two Vineyards and a Sobriety

Comments

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Jennifer

I can't get enough of Cambozola!

Wendy Wong

My favourite cheese is Harvarti.

Alexis

It's a toss-up between St. Maure and Valancay -- OOH LA LA!!

Graham Tearle

Mimolette Vielle until I read the article!!!

Robin Katsaros

Hands down, Comté You can't get really good Comté in US or at least I haven't found it yet, at least comparable to what I've eaten in Paris. Thanks Ann Mah, you rock for giving us another chance at your book! We just sold our family home of 30 years in Los Altos Hills and bought a wonderful place in San Francisco. Just today we finished moving our books up, cookbooks to be specific and guess what I am looking at as we speak? The hardback version of our special book. Love it!

david

Bergenost!

Kelly

I love all kinds of cheese but my absolutely favourite is brie.

Teresa

Rocquefort, the geniune French bleu cheese. Expensive but so good. My sister and I love it for happy hour snacks around Christmas time. Unfortunately, the taste of mon mari runs more towards aged Gouda. Which is good but...no comparison.

Dawn Finch

Brie s'il vous plait!!

Sue Aran

J'aime beaucoup Comte. C'est très simple et très delicieux.

John Lamborn

Rock on Roquefort , the blue salty king of cheese. John, Addington, UK

Kari Lee

As a Gemini I'd like to be able to have TWO choices (brie AND Roquefort) but IF I must narrow it to just one I'll go with brie since I could eat it so many ways!

Cynthia Gillespie-Smith

Je préfère un bon Bleu d'Auvergne!

tim connelly

beaufort sans doubt

Dudley

St Marcellin (in the little brown dish - good for my mise-en-place when I cook!)

Cher Lewis

Bresse bleu

Brenda A

My favorite is Brie.

Emily

MMMMM - St. André, bien sûr!

Denise

Cheddar is my favourite cheese

Connie Phelps

J'adore compte fromage!

Michele Bruwer

Chavignol fromage chèvre crotins!

Lisa Sarasohn

Excellence is my favorite!

Kelly Robic

Beaufort

Donna B.

I love St. Andre, as well as Comte...but now I'm dying to try a good Mimolette!

joanny

For me the the ultimate indulgence is surely a hot baked Vacherin, but it is available only during October till April. Out of season, the classic French cheese camembert makes a rich and delicious substitute. Basically ( both cheeses ) are a whole soft cheese in a box cooked at a highish temperature. Melted with herbs of your choice (I add a few sprigs of thyme) and a little drizzle of olive oil and enjoy with french bread, or my favorite is to pair it with delicious seasonal sliced apples, then to serve it with a glass of wine. This lite fare makes a luxurious fest in front of the fireplace on a cold winter's night. This seasonal delight, the Vacherin, can best be described as unctuous, creamy and beautiful. Don't take my word for it, give it the taste test, and I know you will be smitten, too.

Tiffany T

Brie!! Especially when baked with apricots! Great read!

Aletta Penning

Le Petit Boursin is my favourite.

Amanda

I'm embarrassed to say that my favorite French cheese is St. Félicien. A French friend chuckled when I said I like creamy cheeses and she showed me a paragraph in her book on French cheeses. For St. Félicien (and similar) cheeses the author had written "a cheese much esteemed by children"! Oh well...forever young I'll be.

Fiadhnat McGrath

Emmental.

Gentillylace

I am ashamed to say that I am not a big cheese eater. My favorite cheese would probably be mozzarella, because it is the cheese that is most commonly on pizzas. Eh bien!

Penny K

Give me St Agur any day! Merci!

Madame Tenley Williams

Chèvre de Peypin d'Aigue -- aux herbes! Goat cheese with herbs made in the village where I live.

Allison

A yummy Mont d'Or during the winter!
Merci for the article - very interesting...

Nancy

A wonderful Winter Beaufort

Julie Joachims

Brie. Warm, melty, oozing delicious brie!

Dorothy Lawrence

Since living in Paris years ago, aged mimolette. Always loved the salty taste!

Solange Perrot

My favorite cheese is Roquefort!

Sean Conway

Pour moi,c'est Brie

Barbara P.

A nice Brie with some lovely French bread. In our youth we were really into cross-country skiing & Brie, bread, and a nice bottle of wine always went into our day packs. We would stop on the edge of a frozen lake and have this for lunch. (Had to put the Brie in contact with a warm body part for a while to bring it to room temperature in that cold weather!!)


Amy Jo

Feta, Gouda, Brie... I'm an equal opportunity cheese taster! If I have to choose only one though... a good dill cheese is hard to beat. Vive le fromage! : )

joie in carmel-by-the-sea

This is a tough one as I love cheese. Pont L'Eveque, Brie de Meaux and Savoie Reblochon, and, and, and. Pair that with a fresh baguette and a nice bottle of wine and I could not be more happy..... I have been slowly working my way through all the French and Italian cheeses at two of our local Fromagiers. Livarot did not make a hit and a few others.

nadine goodban

Le petit Basque, a yew cheese, quel délice ! In that part of France, they like to eat it with a cherry preserve, but with a good baguette, for me,
c'est l'idéal .....

Mlle Paige Mathison

Mon fromage préféré est franche comte. Quand je vivais en France comme étudiant dans le Jura ce fromage était notre base. Jusqu'à ce jour c'est le fromage que j'achète dans les États-Unis à un marché spécialisé. J'adore la texture de goût et les souvenirs qu'elle apporte à moi.

Nancy Ravise-Noel

How to pick a favorite cheese? Or a favorite child?! My daily favorite would have to be Le Petit Basque. We visited the Basque region this summer and bought a large wedge from a farmer, who gave me a small jar of black cherry preserves, telling me I must try them together! Magnifique!

Nancy,                     Cambridge

You pictured one of my two favorites: Tomme de Savoie, so I'll mention another favorite from the same area: le rebluchon!

Warren C. Plauche'

My favorite - Roquefort - the king of French cheeses - expensive but worth it for special times. For everyday - a hard, low fat cheese like an aged chevre soothes the heart.

Deborah crawford

There is a great cheese industry in Québec, and I have had some wonderful cheeses when I have visited various shops. I like the soft cheese, and though I cannot recall the names of any I have enjoyed in Québec, we CAN get somers of their produits here in Ontario, and I enjoy the Oka cheese. Delicious.

Bill

Cantal or Beaufort

GwenEllyn.

OMD - St. André. It's like butter!

Trevor Evans

Munster, of course, you can smell it a mile away, but it's not really that strong.

Simon Johnson

In 2010 My wife and I spent August as volunteer caretakers at Les Tourades, an environmental centre near Arles in Provence. One of our duties was to go to the Saturday market to buy supplies - lovely fresh vegetables, stone fruit, and cheese.

My French is rudimentary to say the least. I can make myself understood but understanding what folk are saying to me is a different matter. One of the cheese stalls was selling a goat cheese called Banon, little roundels wrapped in chestnut leaves tied with what looked like hand made string. This I had to try, so I pointed to one, asking "ce frommage la, s'il vous plait." The cheese seller answered in an impenetrable Provencal accent - I gathered that he was offering me some sort of choice but I had no idea what, except that walls seemed to come into it somewhere. Feeling foolish, I gave an approximation of a Gallic shrug and indicated the Banon closest to me.

On the way back to Les Tourades one of the young volunteers wound down the car window.
"Est il une souris mort dans la voiture?" she asked. My wife found the source of the smell and asked why I'd bought ripe cheese. I asked her what the French for ripe was.
"Mur," she replied. The same as the word for "wall" but without a circumflex. Right.

Because everyone thought this a great joke eating my purchase became a point of honour. This proved very easy indeed. With Reblochon a close second, ripe Banon is the finest cheese I've ever eaten.
Simon Johnson
New Zealand

Rod Ferdinands

J'aime beaucoup "Brousse du Rove".

Bevan Newton

Ahhh... a slice of crisp pear married with a shaving of Barry's Bay Aged Gouda.. simply delicious.Champion of Champions 2014 NZ Cheese Awards

Barb

I love all cheeses - literally never met a cheese I didn't love - but a recent new drug in my life means I can only eat faux cheese (American, cream cheese, or Velveeta.) But I can also eat fresh cheese, thankfully, so my favorite now is fresh mozzarella, especially in a summer panzanella. Mmm.

Jennifer Lavorel

Gruyere!

Susanna Thompson

I just adore Pont LÉveque

Jim Atkin

Neufchatel from Normany gets my vote

Elaine Rysner

Chêve, bien sur!

Therese

Spanish Manchego - hard goats cheese. Delicious with Spanish quince paste, Membrillo! We are hooked!

Pejjay

I love St.Félicien too Amanda - one of my all time favourites! Discovered Mimolette Vieille earlier this year - yummy! On the subject of cheese, I live in Brittany and am trying, unsuccessfully so far, to find Halloumi. Anybody able to help?

Karen Pierce

aged comté...I live in France and have learned that I'm not as big a cheese lover as I thought! I love this stuff, though. I also love the Tomme pictured above!

Tood Moxley

Roquefort....but there's not one that I can pass up! Well...to be honest...goat cheese does not top my list since it reminds me of my pet goat Malscom.

Sheryl Moll

Belle Etoile. Beaufort. Mimolette. I love them all, depending on the mood. I knew about the mites on Mimolette, but not in much detail, and found it fascinating. Now that I know more, I love Mimolette EVEN MORE!

Todd

Smoked Gouda! Delicieux!

Lynne

J'aime Parmigiano Reggiano!

Vince DeKime

In the land of a hundred cheeses it's hard to narrow it down to one, but if I must...aged Camembert with a bottle of Rouge Bleu and soon, Mas de Brun

VDK

Pam Luckey

I absolutely love Manchego!

Debra

Raclette

Sofia

Favorite is definitely a young mimolette, thanks to Ann's post I bought it à La Grand Épicerie!

Debbi from New Jersey

Emmentaler - which I first tried as an exchange student in Paris many years ago...

Murray Townsend

My favourite cheese is a triple cream Brie

Megan Kirkland

Make mine gruyère. please!

TBH

A very unusual hard to find cheese even in the country in which it is made-- ' nagel kaas' (Dutch) from the Friesland providence has medium hard texture and is filled with seeds from the carnation flower or cloves.The cloves soften and when you get one in a bite of it what an explosion of flavor! Definitely a bucket list taste to savoir at least once in s life time. Yumm meeeee!

Josee

Tous les fromages! Un bon petit Rocamadour.....

Romeo Danais

Livarot & Pont L'Eveque are right up there.

I've already read the book, a very fun read. Everybody will enjoy it!

Nancy

Moliterno with truffles.....

Bill Clarkson

How about Saint Agur? There is no Saint named Agur, nor is there a town of Saint Agur. The cheese is "made from pasteurized cow's milk from the village of Beauzac in the Monts du Velay, part of the mountainous Auvergne region of central France. Developed in 1988 by the cheese company Bongrain." So says Wikipedia. It's a bit less salty than many blues, a bit milder than some, double cream and very tasty.

So how does one enter the contest?

kathyvincent@hotmail.com

brillat savarin , it's so creamy!

Barb Friedman

Brie, of course

Eric from North Carolina, USA

Gruyere

Deborah Hall

I'd never even heard of Comte until I visted Provence...and it became my favorite cheese!

Maureen Porter

all types of goat cheeses - especially love the log roll covered with ash - yum!

Susan Volpe

Gouda pour moi!

TBH

Does anyone know the name of the cheese made in a coffee tin and allowed to rust? It looks like cayenne pepper on the surface. I had it in Troyes, France offered in a hotel from their cheese dessert cart. Was the waiter taking the mick? Any info appreciated.

sandy

Bucheron or St.Andre are lovely !

Jen

Epoisses

Cyndi Peterik

J'aime Brie et goat cheese.

John L Barbato

Mimolette

Marika Ujvari

Port Salut and Chimay

Linda Frank

Ça dépend! J'aime beaucoup le brie mais aussi Sharp cheddar!

Jackie Layton

I'm embarrassed to admit I adore cheddar cheese. I tried goat cheese this year and love it too. No matter how many cheeses I try and enjoy though, cheddar is my 'comfort' food.

I'd love to win this book. Thanks for the opportunity.

Geraldine Ventura

I also would choose St.Felicien even though it was reported for children. The flavor is mild and it has a creamy consistency. Perfect to take on a picnic or serve as part of a cheese platter in place or before dessert

sally vegso

Reminds me of a favorite family expression: he thinks he is the big cheese.

Marcia Stoub

Thank you for your fun and interesting post today!

I like all cheeses but my favorite is Humboldt Fog cheese. It is a creamy chèvre with a "blue" vein in the center.
Oh now I am hungry!


Joanne P

Brillat savarin aux truffes!

Carole Sendmeyer

I have two favorites. One is French, a brie-like soft cheese called Explorateur. The second one is a California blue called Point Reyes.

Passante

Stilton, well aged. There's nothing like it!

Marjorie

Raclette

Jonathon S

Epoisses Berthaut. Nothing like it with a big red Bourgogne.

Nancy

epoise

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