Coup de Coeur: Jean-Marc talks about the wines of Mascaronne... and, for Bove, the best is yet to come
Saturday, October 14, 2017
Harvesters sorting grapes at Château La Mascaronne. Though everyday life goes on, today's post being no exception, we pause to remember those who have suffered in the recent catastrophes. Jean-Marc and I join all vineyard owners in France, all who are in the wine business, all who are French, and all who are human, in extending our condoleances to those who lost loved ones in the recent California fires that have devasted wineries, neighborhoods and lives. We are deeply saddened by the news stories and greatly moved by the bravery.
The term bon courage has always been a comforting expression of solidarity. We continue with this word journal, now, with another heartful expression and a new column by my husband, Jean-Marc. Thanks so much for reading.
Amicalement,
Kristi
un coup de coeur
: a favorite, love at first sight, a crush on (a product)
Audio File: Hear Jean-Marc read one of the paragraphs highlighted below.
Coup de coeur paragraph reading
JEAN-MARC TALKS ABOUT WINE
Chief Grape steps down from his tractor to return to his passion of discovering wines and sharing them with you.
Si je devais résumer les vins que Tom Bove produit, je dirais tout simplement qu'ils sont meilleurs chaque année. Non seulement chaque millésime est systématiquement meilleur quelque soit les conditions climatiques, mais chaque vin de la gamme progresse pour plus d'équilibre.
If I were to summarize the wines that Tom Bove produces, I would simply say that they are better each year. Not only is each vintage systematically better whatever the climatic conditions but each wine of the range progresses for more balance.
Dans la gamme principale du Château La Mascaronne, les blancs vont toujours vers plus de minéralité et se boivent mieux après deux ou trois ans. Les rosés qu'on apprécie plus dans leur première jeunesse gagnent tous les ans en fraîcheur et en fruit. Les rouges ont de plus en plus de profondeur, des tanins bien ronds sur des notes uniques de poivre, de clou de girofle et même d'eucalyptus.
In the main range of Château La Mascaronne, whites always go to more minerality and drink better after two or three years. The rosés, which are best appreciated in their early youth, grow every year in freshness and fruit. The reds are more and more deep, with round tannins on unique notes of pepper, clove and even eucalyptus.
Mais le vin qui m'a le plus bluffé lors de notre récente visite, c'est le rosé GUY DA NINE 2016 vinifié en barriques de chêne, que je trouvais autrefois un peu lourd et marqué par le bois mais qui, en 2016 a su trouvé une harmonie entre une très belle structure, de la tension, du fruit sur des notes de pêche-abricot et le discret apport de la barrique qui ne prends pas le dessus mais donne une dimension supplémentaire à ce vin. C'est un grand rosé de gastronomie, à marier avec une dinde, de l'agneau ou même un foie gras.
But the wine that impressed me most during our recent visit is the rosé GUY DA NINE 2016 vinified in oak barrels, which I used to find a little heavy and marked by wood but which in 2016 found a harmony between a beautiful structure, tension, fruit on peach-apricot notes and the discreet contribution of the barrel that does not take over but gives an extra dimension to this wine. It is a great rosé of gastronomy, to be married with a turkey, lamb or even a foie gras.
Je terminerai avec une petite anecdote. C'est avec le blanc Clara Lua de Miraval (première propriété de Tom) que j'ai eu mon premier coup de cœur des nombreux vins qu'il produit. C'est d'ailleurs le blanc qui m'a permis de commencer à distribuer ses vins aux États-Unis alors que le blanc ne représente que 10% des volumes produits en Provence et que son prix est au niveau d'un bon Chablis. Je me souviens bien d'un déjeuner avec mon ami Chris où Tom nous disait que ce vin blanc, issu de vieilles vignes de Rolle évolue dans le temps sur des notes aromatiques dignes de Meursault, grand vin de Bourgogne. Ça tombe bien, il me reste quelques 1997, année de naissance de notre fille Jackie, en cave.
I will finish with a little anecdote. It was with the white Clara Lua de Miraval (Tom's first property) that I got my first taste of the many wines he produced. Indeed, it was the white (wine) that allowed me to start distributing its wines in the United States while white represents only 10% of the volumes produced in Provence and that its price is at the level of a good Chablis. I remember a lunch with my friend Chris where Tom told us that this white wine, coming from old vines of Rolle evolves in time on aromatic notes worthy of Meursault, great wine of Burgundy. It's good, I still have some 1997, year of birth of our daughter Jackie, in cellar 😊.
Alors, je suis convaincu que même si les vins qui sont actuellement produits sont excellents, le meilleur est à venir car non seulement les jeunes vignes du Domaine vont s'exprimer toujours mieux dans le futur mais aussi parce que Tom, comme ses vins et comme ses vignes est un homme meilleur chaque année.
So, I am convinced that even if the wines that are currently produced are excellent, the best is yet to come because not only will the young vines of the Domaine express themselves better in the future but also because Tom, like his wines and its vines is a better man every year.
* * *
Before he created two wineries and we began calling him "Chief Grape", Jean-Marc brokered wines. He continues to do so today.
Jean-Marc exports Chateau La Mascaronne to Texas (contact Tim and Phyllis, at French Country Wines) and in Oregon (contact Chris, at Estelle Imports). La Mascaronne wines are available throughout the USA, UK, France, Germany, Canada, Asia, Australia, and the United Arab Emirates...
FOR WORLDWIDE DISTRIBUTION CLICK HERE
Submit your wine questions for Jean-Marc, in the comments section below, and help to inspire a future post. And if you enjoyed his post, be sure to let him know. (photo taken in Le Luc, Provence, after un repas gastronomique)
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For more online reading: The Lost Gardens: A Story of Two Vineyards and a Sobriety
A wonderful lesson in wines Jean- Marc . We have always liked Provençal Roses & have discovered others in Spain in Rueda in the region of Castilla de Leon & of course here in the Roussillion too
May we look forward to other ‘lessons’ please Jean-Marc ?
Posted by: Audrey Wilson | Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 12:07 PM
Kristi, here in Australia we feel the pain of th US with the devastating fires in California. You are not alone - we have just come back from Portugal where we saw many vineyards along the Duoro River decimated by fire, and our Hunter Valley and Barossa Valley vineyards here have had similar catastrophic loss of crops and lives in recent years. Global warming will increase these wild fires everywhere, so we can expect more of the same in the future. We all need a dose of Bon Courage! Great to see Jean-Marc's column - excellent reading!
Posted by: Christine Cormack | Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 01:22 PM
On behalf of my fellow citizens of California, and indeed, in other places in the United States including Texas, Florida, Puerto Rico and the Virgin Islands, I am grateful for your caring concern. A friend of mine's very good friends in Northern California lost not only their whole vineyard and all the wines they had made but escaped with only the clothes on their backs, not even their wallets and ID's. They were very lucky to get out, but all is lost. I will send them your kind words via my friend.
Thanks also to Jean Marc for his writing.
Posted by: Anne Umphrey | Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 01:42 PM
What a delightful combination of thoughts and words. Thank you both. Next Houston trip will try that wine. Have a great weekend.
Posted by: Nancy | Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 03:58 PM
PS. Love those happy laughing faces😄
Posted by: Nancy | Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 04:08 PM
Thank you Kristi for your kind words. I have an artist friend who lives in Santa Rosa who has lost everything. He said the entire town of Santa Rosa gone. I can’t even imagine what that must feel like. My hearts go out to all the victims of the fires and the hurricanes. Sending prayers and healing thoughts to everyone.
Posted by: Pamela Harnois | Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 04:23 PM
Thank you for your kind words and sympathy for our fellow Californians, yes it is devastating..... but we are strong together.
Just reading both of your lovely posts will bring me to Provence soon. As a certified Sommelier I appreciate the description of the wine in detail by Jean Marc. I have always been a lover of French Rose.
As a francofile I really like seeing the paragraph in French then after in English, it is a wonderful way to stay in tune with the little ( or big) parts of the language I am missing!!!
See you soon, I am seriously considering a relocation from Southern California to Southern 🇫🇷!
🌻 DDiamond
Posted by: D Diamond | Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 04:37 PM
Thank you both for your thoughtful, kind words. My daughter called yesterday to say she had gone to the Solano fair grounds to help with all the larger animals that are being brought in. They made her the stable master of several horses, many that are Mustangs, and have never been in stales. She said they are so frightened but she has a gentle whisper with them so soon they will feel safer. It is also one of the staging areas for many fire/rescue crews. Many Doctors, and vets from U.C. Davis. She said it is so very emotional to see the outpouring of love and supplies. (more information: Napa Valley Humane society, or Solano County Fair Grounds, animal rescue)
Posted by: Vance Anderson-Inks | Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 04:48 PM
Thank you Jean Marc. Your descriptions are so appealing and well informed, of course. Makes us want to buy some Rose, right away.
Posted by: Gail Accuardi | Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 04:59 PM
Thank you for your thoughts and concerns for the people affected by the fire north of here. We all seem to know someone who has lost everything. All week the smoke has made it's way here....100+miles away. Fortunately much of of harvest was complete, but any grapes left of course are not good, and there will be vines to be replaced and several wineries that have totally burned. Houses, stores, vines can all be replaced, but lives cannot and this is the saddest part. The people of Northern California are very resilient and take care of each other. Amid the devastation and heartbreak stories that warm the heart are coming out. One that I saw yesterday shows this reliance ....a couple in their late 70's went back to their burned down house to see if anything at all was left. The photo showed the husband with a lemon in his hand....it was from their tree....one lemon. And his comment to his wife......" Well hon, we have fresh lemon for our cocktails tonight and at least we are alive to enjoy them."
Jean-Marc....the column was so well written and the descriptions on point. I have not had Meursault in years. Perhaps time to try it again. Or perhaps I can find some of Tom's wine here.
Posted by: joie in Carmel | Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 05:31 PM
Love the concept of each paragraph in French, with translation below.
Posted by: Mike | Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 05:45 PM
Thank you for expressing your sympathy regarding the North Bay fires. The smoky skies are a sad reminder of the thousands of acres of land, thousands of homes and lives lost in these fires. Everyone has had to stay inside all week because of the toxic smoke and N95 masks to filter the particle pollution are sold out everywhere. The firefighters have been unrelenting with their courageous efforts to put out these fires, often also trying to save their own homes. One positive thing to come out of this is the kindness, support and community coming together to support each other.
Here are two uplifting articles that show the bravery of human beings:
http://uplift.theepoch.com/uplift/ordered-to-evacuate-a-wildlife-preserve-one-77-year-old-man-refuses-and-stays-behind-to-save-the-animals_2331162.html
http://www.latimes.com/local/abcarian/la-me-abcarian-sonoma-fire-20171012-htmlstory.html
Posted by: Gwyneth Perrier | Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 06:37 PM
Merci, Jean=Marc, for your column. I read in the paper today that the total output of wines will be down this year n France and Italy due to climat problems. There will still be enough to fill the demand, but perhaps the cellars may be a lttle more spacious? It isn't easy to make a living raising food or wine, but God bless all who do it. We pray for the California vintners and for poor Puertp Rico. Au revoir!
Posted by: Diane Young | Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 06:42 PM
Merci d'avoir écrit en français! Cela m'a beaucoup plu!
Lynne
Posted by: [email protected] | Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 06:45 PM
I had the pleasure of being introduced to Château Mascaronne's lovely rosé at The River Bend Bistro in Alexandria, Virginia, a year or so ago. It is a delight to know that Jean-Marc is responsible for the distribution of Château Mascaronne's wines whose white and red vintages I will also have to try. I am pleased to have also been able to try Jean-Marc's lovely Mas Brun rosé which was available at a nearby wine store here. Wishing you all the best as everyone struggles with the uncertainty of our rapidly changing climate.
Best, Susan
Posted by: Susan Stafford | Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 10:48 PM
Our dear Kristi and Jean Marc,
Thank you for this very interesting(and informative!) post!
We look forward to tasting these wonderful wines,which thanks to Jean Marc's distribution,we will now hope to have a chance to try.
And thank you,too,for your beautifully expressed thoughts for the all the victims in these terrible California fires.We,too,have friends in Santa Rosa,(thankfully spared),and just read this morning of a couple there who were trapped and survived only due to God's guidance to jump in their swimming pool.
We ourselves have been subject to fires in California and had to evacuate four different times.It is beyond sobering to drive away with your(and loved ones) lives while at the same time,not know the future for your other family,friends,and all of your life long belongings....family Bible,pictures,such treasured keepsakes which due primarily to time constraint and lack of space,could not all be taken.
Times like these make us all pull together.Even considering so many world events happening,watching us unite gives us hope for mankind.
Love
Natalia XO
Posted by: Natalia | Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 11:16 PM
I add my thoughts and send my love to those who are suffering. joie in Carmel, I loved your little story about optimism in the face of devastation, and I'm curious now to see if I can find some of the La Mascaronne wines in Australia. Bon courage à tous et à toutes.
Posted by: Catherine Berry (But you are in France, Madame) | Sunday, October 15, 2017 at 02:12 AM
Dear Christine,
I live in Berkeley California one hour from the vineyards of Napa and Sonoma. Thank you for your kind words. The fires are still burning and there has been more evacuations in northern Sonoma county today (Saturday, Oct. 14). As far as we can tell, this is the worst disaster in the history of California (except perhaps the earthquake of 1906).
Bon Courage indeed,
Susan Levine
Posted by: S. Levine | Sunday, October 15, 2017 at 04:56 AM
Kristi and Jean Marc , thank U both soooomuch.....People of California ..we r with U in thoughts & prayers.......
Great post today thank U soooo much, Kristi, & JM !
Posted by: Faye Lafleur | Monday, October 16, 2017 at 12:00 AM
Thank you Kristi for your prayers for California, not only for the vineyards but for everyone who has lost everything to the fires. Such devastation.....my prayers for California.
I also like the French and then the English. It is very helpful. Thank you JM for your wonderful writing and intrducing us to the Chateau Mascaronne’s wines.
Kathleen
Posted by: Kathleen from Connecticut | Monday, October 16, 2017 at 01:28 AM
Not a good idea to spread rumors that can scare people unnecessarily. Yes, some parts of Santa Rosa burned - Coffey Park, Fountaingrove Pkwy, etc. but the great majority is standing albeit a bit shaken, and the smoke has been horrible. Fortunately air pollution much better this weekend.
A neighbor living 40 miles south in Marin. Laura
Posted by: Laura C | Monday, October 16, 2017 at 05:20 AM
Thank you Kristi for your heartfelt concerns for California. I live very close to wine country and am saddened at all of the losses. I have friends who have lost their homes, favorite wineries who have lost their vines and friends who have lost their pets. And then, Los Angeles, now Santa Cruz, Spain and Portugal... we need to cherish every moment because we never know the next one. I appreciate your shout out.
elizabeth claverie
Posted by: elizabeth claverie | Wednesday, October 18, 2017 at 01:53 AM