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"Donner le meilleur de soi-même" + urban winemakers Fabienne & Lukas Vollmy in Marseille's historic Panier

Lukas vollmy of microcosmos chai panier marseille
Enjoy Jean-Marc's bilingual story about meeting Lukas and Fabienne Vollmy, winemakers in the historic Panier neighborhood of Marseille. First, today's French expression, followed by its correct pronunciation....


"donner le meilleur de soi-même"

    : to give one's best


AUDIO FILE - hear Jean-Marc pronounce the following sentences in French 

Click here for the sound file

("donner le meilleur de soi-même") Les vignes, c'est comme les humains. Plus elles vieillissent, plus elles donnent le meilleur d'elles mêmes grâce à leur assise des racines profondément implantées dans le sol.

(" to give one's best") Vines are like humans. The older they become, the more they give their best thanks to their roots rooted deep in the soil.


JEAN-MARC TALKS ABOUT WINE

"Les Vignes et Les Humains"

Depuis que j'évolue dans le monde du Vin, j'ai très souvent fait la corrélation entre la qualité d'un vin et l'âge des vignes qui le composent.
Since evolving in the world of wine, I have very often made the correlation between the quality of a wine and the age of the vines that compose it.

Il y a une raison simple à cela. Plus une vigne devient âgée, plus elle s'enracine dans le sol et plus elle a la possibilité de nourrir le raisin avec l'ensemble des composants du sol. Paradoxalement, plus la vigne est "vielle", moins elle va produire de raisins alors que son potentiel nourricier devient plus important. Il en résulte que les raisins produits sont de meilleure qualité car ils sont amenés à parfaite maturité.

There is a simple reason for this. The older a vine is, the more it is rooted in the soil and the more it can feed the grapes with all the under ground components. Paradoxically, the more the vine is "old", the less it will produce grapes while its nurturing potential becomes more important. As a result, the grapes produced are of better quality because they are brought to perfect maturity.

Harvesting grenache grapes in France Cote du Rhone
Our friend Jeffrey harvesting centenary old grenache grapes at our first vineyard


La semaine dernière, j'ai pu à nouveau valider cette règle en dégustant un vin exceptionnel, produit dans ma belle ville de Marseille.
Last week, I was able to validate this rule again by tasting an exceptional wine produced in my beautiful city of Marseille.

En plein cœur du quartier populaire du Panier, Fabienne et Lukas Vollmy y ont installé un "Chais Urbain" pour vinifier des raisins achetés à des viticulteurs locaux. J'avais déjà entendu parler de cette belle initiative peu commune et par hasard, alors que nous avons eu la visite de Deirdre et Caleb qui font des vins naturels remarquables dans le Vermont (Merci à Nina qui m'a envoyé le livre de Deirdre "An Unlikely Vineyard"), nous avons dégusté un blanc issu de la cave Microcosmos, un magnifique "blanc de noirs" élaboré à base de Cinsault.

In the heart of the popular Panier district, Fabienne and Lukas Vollmy have set up an "Urban Wine Making Warehouse" to vinify grapes purchased from local winemakers. I had already heard about this beautiful and unusual initiative and by chance, while we had the visit of Deirdre and Caleb that make remarkable natural wines in Vermont (Thanks to Nina who sent me Deirdre's book "An Unlikely Vineyard", we tasted a white from the cellar Microcosmos, a beautiful "white from black (grapes)" made from Cinsault.

An unlikely vineyard deirdre heekin

Caleb deirdre heekin jean-marc kristi espinasse mas de brun vineyard st cyr-sur-mer

Dans le Sud de la France, il est très rare de déguster des blancs issus de raisins noirs car la peau va vite tinter le jus lors du pressurage, rendant le jus de raisins rosé. Mais le Cinsault est un raisin de grosse taille avec une peau fine est peu teinturière. Cette double curiosité a encore plus éveillé mon envie d'aller voir ce qu'y se passe à Microcosmos, d'autant que nous avons souvent communiqué dès lors avec Fabienne depuis notre mise en relation virtuelle du printemps dernier.

In the South of France, it is very rare to taste whites from black grapes because the skin will quickly tint the juice during pressing, making the grape juice rosé. But Cinsault is a big grape with a thin skin with little color. This double curiosity has even more aroused my desire to see what is happening at Microcosmos, especially as we have often communicated with Fabienne since our virtual connection last spring.

Fabienne Vollpy of Microcosmos

Ma visite de la semaine dernière ne m'a pas déçu. J'ai rencontré Fabienne, une femme passionnée, pleine d'énergie et élaborant des vins très représentatif d'un état d'esprit où la Nature est au centre, en dépit d'un environnement urbain. Et lorsque j'ai voulu dégusté ce fameux blanc, Fabienne m'a dit que maintenant ces raisins sont vinifiés en rouge. Comme pour le blanc issus de ces mêmes raisins, j'ai apprécié un vin avec une véritable âme.

My visit last week did not disappoint me. I met Fabienne, a passionate woman, full of energy and elaborating wines very representative of a state of mind where Nature is at the center, in spite of an urban environment. And when I wanted to taste this famous white, Fabienne told me that now these grapes are vinified in red. As for white from these same grapes, I enjoyed a wine with a real soul.

Et puis j'ai appris que 2017 sera la dernière année de production car la vigne est vraiment trop vieille et ne produit plus assez de raisins pour la garder d'un point de vue économique. Bien entendu, d'un point de vue purement financier, je peux comprendre. Mais quel crime d’arracher ces pieds de vignes centenaires qui produisent ces magnifiques raisins et si délicieux vins!

And then I learned that 2017 will be the last year of production because the vine is really too old and does not produce enough grapes to keep them,  from an economic point of view. Of course, from a purely financial point of view, I can understand. But what a crime to tear off these ancient vines which produce these magnificent grapes and such delicious wines!

J'ai proposé à Fabienne mon aide pour convaincre le propriétaire de cette parcelle de garder ces vieux pieds de vigne encore quelques années. Peut-être pourrait elle co-planter quelques jeunes pieds même si la l'entretien d'une jeune vigne sera très compliqué au milieu de ses illustres ainés...

I offered Fabienne my help in convincing the owner of this parcel to keep these old vines a few more years. Maybe she could co-plant some young vines even if the farming of a young vine will be very complicated in the middle of its illustrious elders ...

Les vignes, c'est comme les humains. Plus elles vieillissent, plus elles donnent le meilleur d'elles mêmes grâce à leur assise des racines profondément implantées dans le sol. Un peu comme les humains qui vont puiser dans toute leur expérience pour aller vers plus de sagesse que de la pure énergie produite par un jeune humain qui manque souvent de recul pour agir sagement.

Vines are like humans. The older they become, the more they give their best thanks to their roots rooted deep in the soil. A bit like the humans who will draw from all their experience to go towards more wisdom than the pure energy produced by a young human who often lacks perspective to act wisely.

Et, puis malheureusement vient un jour, le plus lointain possible, où les vignes et les humains doivent malheureusement passer à l'au delà...

And then, unfortunately, comes a day, the farthest possible, where the vines and the humans must unfortunately pass to the beyond ...

Sunset in south of france
Sunset along the south coast of France. Thanks, Jean-Marc, for writing about Fabienne and Lukas. All of us reading wish these two bonne continuation and hopefully we'll cross paths again in the future and share another update. 

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For more online reading: The Lost Gardens: A Story of Two Vineyards and a Sobriety

Comments

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Katia

The world of wine-making is very foreign to me, but it is fascinating to read the story of Fabienne and Lukas. Thank you for sharing this, Jean-Marc and Kristi. It's great to know that Jean-Marc is able to continue to explore new avenues of wine-making in your new home.

Vicky

What a wise philosophy and a beautiful metaphor - the parallel between grapes and humans - wisdom, depth, quality and age; youth and energy. And being rooted... Beautifully put, Jean-Marc!

Robaire

Bien dit, Jean-Marc!

Fabienne Völlmy

What a beautiful and touching post Jean-Marc. Indeed vines are like humans. Thank you so much.

joie in Carmel

Touching and beautiful.....well said.

Patricia Sands

Truly a beautiful story and so well-written. Bravo, Jean-Marc.

Linda Karber

Merci, Jean-Marc, for the beautiful lesson on old vines that should be treasured like our elder family members.

Dave Kapsiak

What a beautiful story, and such wisdom!

Natalia

Our dear Kristi and Jean-Marc,
The beauty of this story and the truth of the wisdoms you shared with us just wrap us in goodness and well being.
THANK YOU!!
Love
Natalia. XO

Judith Dunn

....Love his analogy ..when he becomes bored he should continue writing! Amicalement, Judi

Jeanne

Thank you Jean-Marc and Kristi for the inspirational story. I just love reading the French before seeing how well I understood what was said. More, please!

Faye Lafleurz

Thanks both of U!

Kristin Espinasse


Thank you, Dave, and to those who responded to Jean-Marcs post.  Enjoy your day. 👍☀️

Audrey Wilson

SO interesting to learn all this from an expert !! I shall view my glass of wine with respect now .
It is also such good practice to see how much French I could understand before Jean-Marc’s translation.
Thank you again Jean-Marc !

Carolyn R Chase

Jean-Marc's description shows a great deal of wisdom and perspective. Thanks so much for sharing.

Chris Allin

Dear Kristi and Jean-Marc,

I very much enjoy Jean-Marc's contribution to the FWAD journal and especially appreciate his compassionate perspective on Mother Nature, the terrroir and the living nature of the vines. With his understanding and passion for wine, one can't help but to have total trust in his assessment of a good wine!

Eileen deCamp

Hi Kristi and Jean-Marc,
Thank you for this beautiful story! I love the correlation between the vines and humans!

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