My French Garden and retirement?
The slammer (prison) in French. Don't miss today's 'Taule' story.

Drifting in French....(the vocabulary is in the story)

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Dear Jean-Marc,

Ha, you thought your birthday was over...but just one more thing before minuit: a letter of thanks.

Last night you said you had a surprise for me....

"But tomorrow is your birthday...."  

"Be ready by 9:30!" You countered, and though I tried I could not get you to cough up so much as a hint as to what kind of activity we'd be doing on your special day. Anything from lunch at a friend's vineyard to a glorious walk in your beloved calanques--was this a sea urchin month? I still haven't memorized the handy (you literally count the months on your knuckles) astuce that would tell us whether it was hunting season).

Don't miss the bus! You said this morning, and I began chucking all kinds of en-cas or just-in-cases into my backpack even though we might very well be going to the movies (but no, you are too much of an adventurer! I knew we weren't headed indoors). Pitching sunscreen, an extra sweater, tennis shoes and a water bottle and wearing a wide-brimmed chapeau, I followed you out to our car (ha! No bus! You were throwing me off track). Aha, you were also wearing your maillot de bain. So swimming might be involved....

As we drove along the coast here in La Ciotat the blue sea shimmered and white feathered  gabians swooped up and down the beach. Imagine that, I thought, our magnificent coastline was recently named one of the most beautiful bays in the world!

Oh, you've turned right...well, my guess was we were headed to the little Port of Capucins...to take our first ride in "Chrisline" (a traditional pointu--more about her later). You smiled, loving the game of leading me on.

After a detour in town in which we bought fresh daurade for lunch, we were heading toward our little port. Sure enough we were going to embark on the little red-trimmed boat! 

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The owner, Jean-Louis met us at the dock and after a quick rundown we were heading out to sea!

How close we were to the water in this tiny fishing vessel, a pointu just like the ones you proudly showed me when I moved to Marseilles in 1992. Since that time, we've dreamed of this boat...and now the day had come. 

You planned simple itinerary--an aller-retour to L'isle Vert... And as we put-putted toward the horizon, I noticed the ocean spray (really the sea, but does one say "sea spray"?) Well I was now soaking in it! Oh well, the pros and cons of a little fishing boat!

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With the help of many stolen kisses we reached The Green Island and pas un chat--not a cat in sight, but plenty of seagulls niched into the verdant coastline. We laughed at the memory of having lunch there, in the only restaurant on the tiny island (and it didn't have a W.-C....so the 4 of us (including Dad and Marsha) as casually as possible, filed past all the tables and, back to the dock (in plain view of the diners) slipped into the water for an impromptu swim! Ahhhhh! Never did a swim prove such a relief! Now back to the table for dessert...sly looks on everyone's faces except mine (which was as red and as embarrassed as the berries in my clafoutis !)

Having enjoyed that memory we talked about our dreams and our plans. That's when you turned off the engine and said, in French, "Let's drift." (Deriver, I believe is the verb you used.)

And so we drifted, the two of us, towards our favorite spot, La plage du Mugel. You pulled out two glasses and two different bottles. Sparkling water for me and Mas des Brun rosé for you. And we dreamed aloud, discussing a project-in-the works. If there is one thing that we love doing together, it is building something new--whether a garden or a vineyard. This time we are embarking on an entirely new path...or rather an outlet along our current path. And so we discussed the Day Tours we would like to organize for those readers with plans to visit France...

...Half-day Tours to vineyards, to calanques, and why not out to sea..on our little fishing boat?...

Just then your wine glass slid along the bow and the water began to rise up.... It's a little choppy out there, I said. 

Ce sont les moutons, you pointed out. The white-topped waves grew into a sea of "sheep" and our little boat began to rock....

We made it back to port, but I'm not sure an escapade at sea would appeal to everybody. A person would have to love the fine spray of sea (all over their body), and be able to relax when the sign reads "Pas de W.-C."....

Well, my love, we'll figure it out. Meantime, here's  to new projects and a new year ahead for you... "Mr. 52." 

Love,

Madame Pipi

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I hope Jean-Marc enjoyed this letter. You can make it even better by dropping some hints in the comments: Let us know what kind of Half-day tour would interest you:

1. A Vineyards Tour (visit one or two of our favorite places, and lunch in a café or bistro)

2. A hike in one of our scenic calanques, or sea inlets, and lunch (picnic or restaurant?)

3. A visit to one of our neighboring towns, such as Cassis or Sanary or Bandol or La Ciotat (which just this week was voted Most Beautiful Bay in the world!)

4. Cooking Together: We'll revisit our favorite family recipes and cook them here in our kitchen: La Tarte Tomate, Daurade au four, classic French salad (secrets, secrets...) and the classic yogurt cake. (Thanks, Frances, for this suggestion!)

....and, of course....

5. A ride in our Provencal fishing boat. She creaks a bit..not bad for being almost one hundred years old!

Thanks for choosing your favorite tour and adding any ideas in the comments, below.

For additional photos and videos, visit my Instagram account and be sure to hit the follow button.

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For more online reading: The Lost Gardens: A Story of Two Vineyards and a Sobriety

Comments

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Joanne Fischer

Would love a day of wine tasting and vineyard walking with my favorite wine-maker! ...and his beautiful wife!

Sounds like you had a lovely birthday, fellow Airien! 🍾🥂❌⭕️😘

Natalia

Our dear Kristi,
What a wonderful,loving post!
And!May all the dreams you dream together continue to come true in the most wonderful way!
Bon anniversaire,Jean Marc!
Many more filled with blessings,health,and your beautiful family.
Love
Natalia xo

Ron

I choose all of the choices!

Gail

For me, a hike in a scenic calanque, and lunch (picnic or restaurant, both are good)

But a visit to a neighboring town would also be good especially to see the Most Beautiful Bay in the world!

Eileen Burns

OH, the boat ride! And perhaps a visit with your friend the watercolor artist? HAPPT BIRTHDAY! Much love, Eileen

Susie

Kristin, your day sounds merveilleux. But my question has nothing to do with your day at sea. It's about your striped shirt. I have had one like it for MANY years. The marque was St. James, and it was a heavy cotton. It had a terrible run in with a bottle of bleach. I've been sadly searching for the same thing online, but they don't seem to exist. Unless, and I hope this is the reason, it is the wrong season for a heavy tee. I guess I'm just wondering if the old heavy ones are gone forever, or maybe next fall, I will find them again. Even if you just guess at the answer, I'll be content!

I think if I had my "drothers" I'd take a slow ride in your old fishing boat to a calanque for a picnic of bread, sardines in olive oil and rosé. And some dark chocolate. Oh, and by the way, a couple of r.t. tickets from the U.S. That should do it.

Love all your posts. Hello of Jules.

Nancy

Happy Birthday JM!! I chose all of them. They sound like dreams comping true.

Linda Karber

Madame Pipi! Ha, I laughed out loud! Thanks for the journey. Happy Birthday, Jean-Marc.

Bisous,
Linda

Dawn

All of the above, s'il vous plaît! Love this story. HBD Jean-Marc!

Chris Allin

Dear Kristi,
What a refreshing, sweet, romantic story.
Turning your dreams into reality is truly an inspiration. Hoping that the Christline becomes yours and adds many joyful moments to your lives!

Carolyn Chase

First choice would be the vineyard tour, but the coastline would be a close second. Any of it would be marvelous.

Carolyn Chase

PS Thanks for taking me away from the snow we just got on top of all my spring flowers (6" in the back yard).

Jo

💕 Love all the tours~how do
I sign up???

Dawn Johnson

Joyeux anniversaire Jean Marc,
What a sweet post. I would definately take one of your tours on my next visit, I would love a picnic at one of the Calanques and a boat tour and wine tasting. All really great ideas. Bonne chance

Derin Gemignani

Dear Kristi, what a wonderful idea to guide tours and host events. That is such a good fit for the two of you, since you know so much and love your country (adopted in your case) so much.
I would love, absolutely love, to have a tour on the boat, searching for those incredible sea urchins, oursins, or uni, in Japanese. I am a huge fan of them and to actually do what Jean-Marc does, grabbing them straight from the sea, would be divine. I love the Med and anything to do with that would be so much fun. How soon do you think this would happen? Or would all this be sort of a bespoke adventure, designing tours according to the tastes of your clients? I am looking at an extended cycling trip to France in the spring of 2020.
All the best and good luck with your new adventures!!
Mrs. Derin Gemignani

Alyssa

A wonderful tour for me among the moutons! Merci and Happy Birthday, Jean-Marc!

Chris Allin

After reading the comments to Kristi’s post, I found this. It might be worth a look! saint-james.com. Select ‘women’

Chris Allin

PS. It is almost impossible to tell how heavy the fabric is!

Leslie NYC

I love thinking about this on a Friday afternoon!
Any of these would be grand, but the boat ride and calanque hike/picnic seem the most unique.
You could just let people know that they might get soaked through!
I love this idea for a new business!
For Susie, above:
I have been a Saint James fanatic for 30 years. They have stores New York and all over France. They also have a website. They make shirts in several thicknesses. Unfortunately they have taken their classic boxy shape and made it slimmer. This is not as flattering on a 50+ woman with a thicker middle than I used to have. In fact, only stick figures look good in these. My suspicion that the shape had changed was confirmed by a salesman. Perhaps there will be a return to form in the future!
Vivent les rayures!

Leslie NYC

Happy Birthday, Jean Marc!
Your day sounded wonderful!

Andrea Hughes

Bon Anniversaire, Jean-Marc!!

Karen Cafarella

Happyy, Happy Birthday Jean-Marc! What a wonderful day!

Linda R

What a perfectly wonderful day ! Many more happy years together to you two.

Stephanie M

Bonjour! Oh, I like the idea of joining you on a little tour. I’ll be in La Ciotat this coming September, too. :)
Steph

Kathleen from Connecticut

Happy Birthdy Jean Marc 🍷🎂🎉
Your new venture sounds wonderful.

Kathleen

Catherine Berry (But you are in France, Madame)

What a lovely, romantic day out together. So lucky.

Marianne Rankin

If I had to choose I'd pick the boat trip in the calanques, with a chance to hunt for oursins, and a picnic on the island. But I'd like to try all of the suggestions. Maybe have a weekend or week package for those who would like to do a little of everything.

Bon anniversaire, Jean-Marc!

Jan Goodloe

Hello, Kristen,
Loved this post. I visited the calanques in 2005 with a group of students. I am a new subscriber and a retired French teacher from Houston. I had the pleasure of meeting Jean-Marc at Bistro Provence last week. A charming man. I look forward to your future posts
Jan

Nancy Stilwagen

Happy Birthday, Jean-Marc!

When I travel, I love to see gardens and historic places. A little wine wouldn't hurt, and a drift in the boat sounds wonderful! I know I am not helping to narrow down the choices, lol. I just want to do it all.

Pat  and Rob Wiggins

We’ll be in your ‘neighborhood’ this summer - June 6 - 20th. Any chance we could join you two for any of the above ideas this summer? If so, let us know the details - you can email me! Not sure when you are actually moving from dreams to start-up:) We were able to visit you several years ago in your Vinyard before your move to the South. And we were able to go to one of Jean Marc’s Portland wine-tastings several years ago. We’re always up for an adventure!

gary

I've long wanted to go out in a boat with Jean-Marc. Alas, I know it is never oursin season when I'm in Provence. We will be in Bédoin for all of June and we will have lots of guests coming throughout the month. If you get a few trips organized and wanted some open-minded clients to try them out, I might be able to provide some clients in June.

I just refreshed my geography by looking at some maps. So L'isle Vert must be the island we could see from the restaurant above the Mugel beach. A nice excursion would be going there by boat to enjoy some touts-mange.

Or going to the market and then cooking at your house.

I realize that I'm one of the few lucky ones here who has done many of these things. Wine tastings and tours at your two former wineries, seen you house and kitchen, eaten touts-mange looking at L'isle Vert. I am certain they would be activities for organizing half-day and all-day tours. Let me know if you have something to offer in June!

Keith Van Sickle

Sweet!

Jens from Copenhagen

I am almost able to make Gary's words mine! I'd also love 'chasing' oursins with JM.

Great story to read today on a sunny spring day. Makes me long for our next trip down South 3 months from now.

/Jens

slation

Try AMOR LUX .FR .they do great T shirts but you may have to wait for the heavier ones until later

slation

Choices ,choices !! I think for me,having limited mobility, number 1 &3 . Bonne Chance with this idea !

Joanne Gazarek

Happy birthday to Jean-Marc. We are staying in La Ciotat from May 25 to June 8 and would love to take any of your tours except for the boat ride. We live in St. Thomas, USVI and are surrounded by water and had many trips in our boats of various kinds. We hope we can get together. Joanne and Frank

Valerie

Thank you for sharing your lovely birthday surprise day. My suggestions: anything near or on the water. Also, any other surprise that Jean Marc comes up with--that element made it fun. I enjoyed your whole day vicariously!

Patricia Sands

Bonne idée! Any tour with you and J-M would be a delight in every way. What a fine idea ... and surely to be a great success! Can't wait to hear more!

Monique

C'est excitant! I love how you live life..always on an adventure:)You are so perfect for each other♥

louis bogue

Happy Birthday Jean Marc, any tour with the two of you would be a Great memory!!!

Patteecee

The St James MERIDAME II Authentic Breton Shirt | Heavyweight Cotton | Women Fit may be what you are looking for:

https://www.saint-james.com/us/meridame-authentic-breton-shirt-heavyweight-cotton-women-fit-10851.html

I had one fir years from llbean (USA) that was a nice sweater weight...”outgrew” it & passed down to my great-neice. Just ordered a new one.

Patty

llbean sweater

https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/58620?page=french-sailors-shirt-three-quarter-sleeve-boatneck

Gail Accuardi

What a great idea! We would love to cook with you, of course but any of the above would be interesting and fun. We will be in France soon, in April, and I wonder if you will be ready to start your tours by then.
Happy Birthday Jean Marc. I have a Saveur magazine on spiny Urchins for you...forgot to bring it to the wine tasting. Will put it in my suritcase now. G

Karen Fawcett

I'd go anywhere or do
anything with you
and Jean Marc.

Sending love.

Patteecee

Happy Birthday J-M! Kristi, all of your tour ideas sound good, especially cooking, hiking, picnicking...I would like preparing foods w/you, then out for an adventure! Best wishes for another happy, healthy adventurous year. Cheers!
Patty in sunny (enfin!) Roanoke.

John Hawke

This is the perfect venture for the two of you. I promise to be one of your first customers!
John

Marti Hinman

Bonjour Kristi,

Thank you for sharing your lovely story. It brought memories of my husband introducing me to sailing to enjoy the beauty and mystery of the sea.

The new venture that you and Marc are planning sounds wonderful. Très bon chance!!

When are these activities going to be available? We are going to be in Provence this coming May. I would love to surprise my husband with a ride in your fishing boat. If you have details about how to book any of the activities you'll be offering; it would be great to know. Do I sound too eager?? 😹

As always, love your stories. Feel that they truly come from your heart. Thank your for sharing them with your loyal readers.

Marti

Susie

Thank you for your help! I appreciate it.

Susie

I hadn't thought of that, but it's a nice brand, too. Thank you!

Susie

Yes, it does sound like what I'm looking for. I'll go to the site and see what they have. Thank you so much.

Adrienne

What a wonderful day and what a wonderful journey you are on together. I love every option! It would be amazing to spend time with you and JM doing anything. You feel like old friends .... I’ve been through so much with you! I would use all my air miles to come to la Ciotat for a half day adventure!

Mike

Cooking together at a carefully prepared place in a vineyard. Bon Anniversaire, Jean-Marc!!

Ophelia

Dear Kristin -- The hike along the calanques and a picnic sounds beautiful to us. All the tours sounds great, however. And what a wonderful birthday outing, too.

Bon anniversaire to Jean-Marc.

Amicalement,
Ophelia

MBH

1-3 and I would add a visit any gardens in the area.

Roseann Milano

I always tell people who are considering a self tour: Go to as many travel companies to see where they take you and what are their highlights. From there you can customize what you want with what the professionals offer. I offer you the same advice. Check out what other groups have on their schedules and then make it your own.

Judi

What an incredible surprise and beautiful day Jean-Marc planned for you both! Such a great way to celebrate! I loved reading this real life story you shared! Happy Belated Birthday, Jean-Marc! I would love to see all of Ciotat and some of the neighboring villages, markets. The calanques look so gorgeous, but not sure I'm up to hiking too strenuous a hill? But, a picnic there sounds beautiful. I think the tour idea is great!! If you were a bed n breakfast, I think your readers would have you booked up all year!!!

Eileen

Hi Kristi,
Sounds like a fun day together! I think you all would make a great tour couple! You know all the fun places to visit! Good luck with this next adventure! It's always fun to plan and dream of what is possible! I agree with Judi above....a bed and breakfast would be fun too!

Diane Heinecke

I'd choose the Vineyards Tour. You two have had so much experience with viticulture, and it IS Jean Marc's passion. It sounds so exciting to plan together! Bonne chance, at bon anniversaire a Jean Marc!

Joan

It all sounds wonderful (except for the sans W.C.). God bless you both.

Chris Burke

Hello Kristi,
We will be Cassis June 14 and 15 and would love a calanque hike, cooking with you, etc. Please contact me directly for further discussion. It sounds like a wonderful new adventure for the two of you.

Chris

Susan Leigh Blough

Kristi, I would love to any of the first four ( choppy water isn’t one of my favorite things). I would especially love to see the calanques as you have described them in your blogs. In fact, my husband and I are in Uzes next week and Sablet after that, and back to France this fall. So I hope you might have sny of those choices ready later this year!!

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