La Robe de Mariée: My Wedding Dress Conundrum
Caregiver in French: Un Auxiliaire de Vie

Postcard from Brittany

Bréhat Island English Channel
Agapanthus flowers on the Island of Bréhat.

POSTCARD FROM BRITTANY

When we received an invitation for un mariage in Brittany, Jean-Marc planned a romantic escapade around this joyous event. We only had three days to vacation together, not counting travel time, but it was enough to mark the occasion of our 30th wedding anniversary. After careful research, my former fiancé put together an itinerary including two nights on the island of Bréhat, lunch above the beach in Saint-Sieuc (back on the mainland), and a half-day in the fortified town of St. Malo.

This ambitious périple surrounding his godson’s wedding filled me with doubts, especially after my husband announced we were limited to one carry-on suitcase. Given we were leaving the heatwave in La Ciotat for the rainy north coast—to tromp around a muddy island before heading to a formal affair—packing would be a challenge.

Sacrificing my hairdryer and clothes steamer, I packed two permapress robes, a satin jupe and chemise, two pairs of heels, a raincoat…. (I won’t bore you with the rest), and stepped onto our Volotea flight wearing white jeans and a cream-colored blazer that would hopefully go with all three dressy outfits. Wearing half my party attire, I felt somewhat stiffer than usual, especially for a full day of travel, but how else to keep a portion of my wardrobe pressed for the wedding?

As for my no-fuss Frenchman, he carried a lightweight cotton tote (compliments of our local pharmacy), and somehow managed to fit all his needs inside—with room to spare for my umbrella! The bright yellow floral print on his bag was an amusing contrast against his rugged exterior.

The drive to the airport, the plane ride, the rental car, and la vedette, went smoothly. However, when we stepped off the ferry boat late that afternoon to find a tractor waiting for us, any embarrassment I felt being the only tourist in white was overcome by panic. How to keep these party clothes clean if we were going to ride that muddy thing? This being a car-free island, it was ride the tractor or pédaler!

Soon enough another tractor arrived towing a tiny train behind it. Ouf! Boarding one of the train cars, we enjoyed a scenic tour of the island from the embarcadère to our friend’s house, on a bluff above the English channel, where we would séjour for two nights. Arriving at the little stone cottage, the view during high tide was breathtaking as the sun began to set on the orange horizon.

By morning, three little boats in the cove were temporarily stranded among the seagrass and rocks, making for another charming view from the large rock where we would drink our morning coffee and enjoy the evening apéro both nights. After a breakfast of pain au chocolat and café crème in Le Bourg, a ten-minute walk from our cottage, Jean-Marc suggested we set out to discover le phare du Paon on the northernmost part of the island. But I suddenly felt lazy on learning the distance. It was only four kilometers there and back, but we also had plans to walk to the southernmost end of the island by noon. As I stood there waffling over what to do, the following words tumbled out: “Je te suis!

I’ll follow you! This new mantra would be my ticket to overcoming indecision, hesitation, and always wanting (if not having) my way. With Jean-Marc in the lead, I was free to photograph the hortensias and the hollyhocks (Bréhat Island is classified as the flower island), the neat stone houses made of local rock, the island dogs, the bikes, the beaches, and coves at high tide and low.

We passed fields with cows, rocky beaches, and curious stone structures. During the peaceful marche, Jean-Marc admitted that one thing he loves about these little islands off the coast of Brittany is the feeling of insularity, or safety. Passing an unmanned stand brimming with produce and confitures, I understood what he meant. The little stand was packed with homemade jams, vibrant produce and there was even fresh-baked bread. A sign read: “Petit Marché. Servez-vous et laissez les sous dans la caisse s'il vous plaît.” Serve yourself and leave the money in the cash box.

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“This would not go over well in Marseille,” I giggled, to which Jean-Marc added, “No, they would take the goods and steal the cash!”

When Jean-Marc suggested lunch on the south coast, I resisted the urge to protest and instead said, “Je te suis!” I'm so glad I did. We discovered the island’s only sandy beach, La Plage du Guerzido, with an inviting terrace shaded by a parasol pine. Imagine that! Un pin parasol! We marveled at the exotic flora—jasmine, lavender, fig trees, and even pink tamaris from the desert—all thriving on this enchanting archipelago.

For our last evening, we enjoyed more local huitres, baked brandade de morue, and toasted to our full (and only) day on L'île de Bréhat, hoping to come back and rent a house and bring the family. (The only risk being rain! We were lucky for our sunny day, but rain is de rigueur on this little island along the English Channel. In that case, my family from Seattle would be right at home!)

The next morning we had café and croissants at Hotel Bellevue on the port before boarding la vedette back to the mainland. With time dwindling we hurried to the beach in Lancieux for lunch, before heading to our rental to clean up. Only, there were no sheets or towels in our apartment! (It's not uncommon in France to have to bring your own linens.) Undeterred, we used our t-shirts to dry after showering, and made it to the ancient église in time to see Julia and Baptiste walk down the aisle. I had to split my Kleenex in two when Jean-Marc’s eyes began watering, too! Did he also feel that quiver in his heart? There is something so tender, so innocent, so trusting about two souls uniting pour le meilleur et pour le pire, jusqu'à la mort vous sépare!

Next, we raced back to our résidence hôtelière to put sheets on our bed (Jean-Marc located a janitor who tossed him a duffel bag of bleached linens) and change for the dressy evening reception. Everything had gone incredibly smoothly up till now, so when I saw my horrible chipped toenail polish, pas de panique! I simply let it go. (I would not trade all that walking and sightseeing around the island for a perfect manicure!)

Back at the reception in a picturesque hameau, we joined the bride, groom, and over a hundred invités for a night of dining, dancing, and toasting to une vie à deux. I missed my chance to offer any guidance to the young couple, but now, in retrospect, I suppose one piece of advice I could give would be to incorporate this golden phrase, adopted on this romantic getaway: “Je te suis!” I will follow you! (And then to take turns saying it to each other throughout your marriage.)

Back on the airplane, buckled in and heading home, I am amazed at how smoothly our four-day race to Brittany went. Like the shores of Bréhat, where the tide comes in and goes out, so do our fears, doubts, needs, wants, and moods. We just have to keep our eyes on the horizon, remembering that every little thing will work itself out. As I sit next to Jean-Marc, I reflect on how this trip, with its minor challenges and beautiful moments, has reinforced our bond. “Je te suis, chéri,” I whisper, knowing that these words mean more than just a willingness to follow. They represent trust, love, and a lifelong partnership. No matter where life takes us, I pray we will navigate it together, sometimes leading, sometimes following, but always side by side.

***

IMG_3931-EDIT
At the church in Saint-Lunaire, the bride and groom are cheered with a fleet of bubbles instead of rice.

Bride and groom
Jean-Marc watches his newly-wed filleul, or godson, and bride as the groom's parents give a speech at the evening reception.

Jean-Marc and Kristi July 2024
Picture taken at the wedding reception we attended on Friday night. I don't know if this is a cultural note, but at many events these days you will find a photo box where guests can ham it up and bring the photo souvenir home. Are you familiar with these?

Friends stone cottage
The property where we stayed while visiting Bréhat. This is our friend's cottage, and we stayed in the second cottage located in the spot where I am taking this picture.

20240710_184836_Original
The charm of bicycles gliding past...

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COMMENTS
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REMERCIEMENTS
Sincere thanks to the following readers who recently sent in a blog donation. This truly is a reader-supported journal and I appreciate your help in publishing it week after week. Merci beaucoup! --Kristi

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Jeanine WW

Merci Kristi pour tous les histoires merveilleuses. Elles font ma journée. —Nancy C.

Merci for your sharing your heartfelt journey with all of your readers! —Michelle M.

I appreciate and enjoy the engaging and beautiful writing of Kristin Espinasse. Kristi is both a wonderful story-teller and photographer. Thank you for your vivid glimpses of French family life. Merci, Kristi! —Marion J.

JM and tractor
We thought this was our ride! (Jean-Marc and our luggage, including his only tote. I like how the yellow flowers match his shorts :-)

Tractor train for Brehat Island
Finally, we spotted the tractor train coming up the long embarcadère, with its three cales (or docks). Depending on the tide, the boat will arrive at one of the 3 cales. The farthest is a 10 minute walk to the port.

FRENCH VOCABULARY

Audio File: click here to listen to the French and English terms below

le mariage = a wedding
le périple = journey
la jupe = skirt
la chemise = shirt
la vedette = the ferry
l'embarcadère = the dock
le séjour = stay
le phare du Paon = the Paon lighthouse
la marche = a walk
les hortensias = hydrangeas
le pain au chocolat = chocolate croissant
le café crème = coffee with cream (or rather milk)
le pin parasol = umbrella pine
l'hortensia = hydrangea
la lavande = lavender
les huitres = oysters
la brandade de morue = cod brandade
la vedette = ferry
l'église = church
une résidence hôtelière = a hotel residence
une vie à deux = a life together
un hameau = a hamlet
un invité = a guest
pour le meilleur et pour le pire = for better or for worse
jusqu'à la mort vous sépare = until death do us part
pas de panique = no panic
Je te suis = I will follow you
chéri = dear

Brehat Plage du Grand Guerzido
La plage de Guerzido

Fish in the window
Window on Bréhat Island

Palm tree on Brehat island
A palm tree on Brehat Island, along the English channel...
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Earlier I mentioned only one sand beach, clearly there are more!

IMG_3996-EDIT
In St. Malo, a fortified town where we had lunch and a stroll.

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Comments

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Henrik Døcker

I don't understand why you constantlt talk of Brittany? I am from Denmark where almost anybody talk English as a second language or lingua franca, We always refer to that part of France as Bretagne. Please explain that to me! Thanks in advance. Yours Henrik Docker, Copenhagen.

Kristin Espinasse

Bonjour, Henrik, I am using the English translation for Bretagne, or Brittany. But if it is correct to call it Bretagne in English then tant mieux! (I always say "Bretagne" when speaking Franglais here at home.) Normally I would interchange the two, and add the terms to the vocabulary section, but with all the info I had to share in today's story, I overlooked that. P.S. Another way to refer to Bretagne is "Breizh". We named our first golden retriever this way. Cheers and I hope this answers your question.

Eileen

Bonjour Kristi,
Lovely story and photos! Nice to celebrate your anniversary along with JM's godson's wedding!
Blessings,
Eileen

Karen Rowlands

Thank you Kristi for the pictures of beautiful Brittany/Bretagne.
We moved down to La Charente nearly 4 years ago and so miss that coast.
Glad you had a wonderful visit 😊

Susan Springer

Lovely post. pédaler=to pedal

Nancy

Congratulations. Such a beautiful trip - thank you for sharing with us. Sounds like a dream. Have a great weekend.

Ophelia

What a lovely, thoughtful post!! You have a beautiful marriage.

laura

BEAUTIFUL! CHARMING! love love love the brightly painted fences and lace curtains! gorgeous pic of you and sir grape! ❤️

Joanne

What a lovely way to greet the day with a postcard from Brittany in my inbox. Thank you, Kristi! You have sparked some wonderful memories of a trip I took to Brittany which included a calvaire, a stay in a grand old seaside hotel in St. Malo where I believe I watched some wheeled surfboards with colorful spinnaker sails making circles in the broad expanse of an Atlantic beach. I had a delicious seafood dinner there. Then we made our way to Port Crouesty in Arzon to experience the Hotel Thalasso & Spa. As a result of that joyful experience I still enjoy swimming in salt water pools here in California. You are indeed fortunate to have so many beautiful travel experiences in France with your soul mate. You have done well to memorialize these bons moments!

Margaret Morris

A beautiful piece of writing. An intriguing story, stunning descriptions, touches of humour and an abundance of love. I always enjoy your posts but this one was particularly precious. Thank you.

Marcia

What a lovely trip! I also went to a wedding at almost the same time. My daughter was married in Munich, Germany to a wonderful young German guy. I made the wedding cake (strawberry). We did a LOT of walking, and it poured down rain on the wedding day, but I am told that is good luck to have rain on your wedding day. Best wishes to the sweet couple.

Remember this song from long ago? Love him, I love him, I love him
And where he goes I'll follow, I'll follow, I'll follow
I will follow him
Follow him wherever he may go
There isn't an ocean too deep
A mountain so high it can keep me away
I must follow him (follow him)
Ever since he touched my hand I knew
That near him I always must be
And nothing can keep him from me
He is my destiny (destiny) ....

ann sorocki

bonjour, Kristi e Marc: Thank you so much for your wonderfully detailed description of your adventure. The photos are beautiful & so glad that the weather was in your favor! May the newlyweds have as much joy & tenderness as you & Marc have. Enjoy today! Amicalmente, Ann

Gordon R. Vaughan

Thank you for a lovely post. I always wonder if the northern coast is too cold and wet to be pleasant. I'm glad you got sunshine!

Jo-Anne

Loved your story! What a lovely anniversary celebration for both of you. I love your response- what a wonderful phrase that works to keep the relationship open to new ventures and faith in each other.

The island sounds like an enchanting place. Your words highlight the sights there as well as the charm. I do hope you can return with your family. It sounds like a fantastic destination for nourishing your soul. Happy anniversary!

Natalia

Our dear Kristi,
What an absolutely wonderful trip!
( and,oh! I am so familiar with the challenges--and fun!--of sharing a carry on!)
You truly made us feel as if we were right there beside you,savoring every minute , rejoicing for the newlyweds and! Especially! Celebrating your 30th!!
LOVE "je te suis!!"( Marcia had me singing along!Hadn't thought of that song in years,and the beat still gets me moving!)
Blessings always,mes cheres!
Arms tight around all of you!
Love
Natalia XO
PS super helpful vocabulary( as always!) my gosh ! For all these years I have been misspelling cheri!

Joan

With the Paris Olympics on the horizon and the craziness accompanying, this post is a reminder of a different kind of France, which seems timeless in its own way. May it ever be so....

Alice Shupe

La Bretagne is one area of France we've yet to explore. Seeing your photos, I'm moving it up to the top of the list! 30 years of marriage?! We're hitting 43 this summer and "Je te suis" is indeed a good word picture for doing life together over the years. Felicitations a vous deux!🍾🥂💕

Teri

Thank you Kristi for the lovely post. I so enjoyed your writing of this unique adventure as well as the wonderful photos. It is great that you are becoming more open to new experiences and finding so much joy in them. Happy Anniversary and I hope you will be able to go back to this wonderful place again.

Marjorie

Vos histoires sont une délicieuse façon de fortifier le français. Belles images....Merci!

C-Marie

Hi Kristi,

I loved your story!! God bless you and Jean Marc and family all the days!!

Love in Jesus, C-Marie

barbara michels

The Island looks like a fairy tale setting. Your words almost sound like wedding vows. Happy Anniversary.

Suzanne Dunaway

Oh, we want to see that part of Brittany! Lovely story with a loving message and yes, taking turns at the helm of a marriage works wonders…💕

Gail in AZ

Happy 30th Anniversary! Sounds like it was all terrific and everything worked out! 💕

Catherine Rompais-Allaway

Congratulations for your wedding anniversary - that's wonderful and such a beautiful place to celebrate it. Your photographs are fabulous. And St Malo is so lovely, I love it there. I have made a note of some of the meals you have eaten, I haven't heard of some of them. We're going to Vannes for the first time in a few days and I am so excited. I love Brittany. Thank you again for the words and the inspiration. Catherine in La Chapelle D'Armentières xxx

Stacy Lund

I can’t imagine a lovelier place to celebrate your love and anniversary! Your entire trip sounds amazing and enjoyable. The joy is evident in the picture of you and J-M; you look relaxed and happy. Island life has a special feeling and charm. Bréhat appears to be from a fairy tale. I’m grateful that you were able to immerse yourselves in this carefree beauty for a few days!

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