FRENCH WORD-A-DAY

Le Bon Temps ("The Good Times")—the name of this local brasserie captures the spirit of why my son loves La Ciotat so much. Now, he's committing to a new home and a new chapter. In today's story, read about this exciting milestone. Below: a dreamy night view from Max and Ana's apartment.

TODAY'S WORD: La Crémaillère 

: housewarming party; housewarming

PRONUNCIATION: [kray-myeh-air]

EXAMPLE SENTENCE:
"Ce n’était qu’un coup de clé ce soir-là, la véritable crémaillère viendra plus tard."
"It was just a key-turning celebration that evening; the real housewarming party would come later."

A DAY IN A FRENCH LIFE by Kristi Espinasse

1er Coup de Clé: On vous attend ce soir à 20 h pour notre premier coup de clé dans notre nouvel appartement.

The WhatsApp message read: “First Turn of the Key: We’re expecting you tonight at 8 PM for our first turn of the key in our new apartment.”

This was more than just an invitation—it was a milestone for Max and Ana. After several years together, this young couple had taken the next big step: buying a nest to call their own. For Jean-Marc and me, it was deeply moving to witness this commitment, a tangible sign of their journey and their shared dreams.

We were excited to see their new home, nestled just a few kilometers from Max’s previous apartment, closer to the foothills of La Ciotat and the famous, winding Route des Crêtes. This scenic road, flanked by purple bruyère fading to deep amber as the months grow colder, offered a hint of the charm in the new chapter Max and Ana were beginning.

Huddled in front of an open fenêtre, ice-cold air chilling our faces, we listened to Max as he continued our tour of the couple’s new digs.

"Here in the chambre d’amis, you can see the green hills in the distance—during the day, that is."

Looking out into the night sky, the scene was poetic: a full moon peeking through the clouds and the neighborhood below illuminated like a painting. A dark green pin parasol hinted at where we were in France—here near the Mediterranean Sea. “You can see it from the balcony," my son added. For Max, just like for his father, the sea, with its nearby islands to sail to, its prickly oursins to catch and savor, and its familiar maritime scent was an essential part of his habitat, given he was born near the coast and its rocky calanques. If, some 29 years ago, his first scent had been the rose petals his grandmother picked for him outside the maternity clinic, the next thing to tickle his nostrils was the salty sea air in Marseille!

"It's wonderful," I said. "The place has good bones!" Looking around, the walls were bare, exposing wiring, holes, and other secrets hidden behind the furniture the previous owners removed before their déménagement. From the looks of it, Max and Ana had a sizable renovation ahead of them, but from the sparkle in their eyes as they showed us around it was clear they were up for the challenge. Même pas peur! as the natives say.

Ana shared her plans for the following day: "Je vais attaquer le papier peint." While Max returned to work, Ana would be single-handedly removing all the wallpaper—in the dark (as the electric shutters would be completely closed and locked after tonight’s party, owing to the electricity being temporarily shut off).

The echo of our voices in the empty apartment, the pitter-patter of scratchy dog paws, and the tap tap tapping of our heels gave the space a lively, festive feel. But I couldn’t help wondering if the neighbor downstairs could hear it all. Would they complain about the noisy celebration? I hoped this spirited start wouldn’t get things off on the wrong foot with les voisins.

Thankfully, the younger generation doesn’t worry as much as I do. Everything fascinates them, especially human potential. "The woman above us, on the 4th floor is 92 years old," Max shared, raising his glass for the toast. "There’s no elevator, and she climbs the stairs at least once a day whether or not she has errands to run."

By the way, in France, what Americans call the 5th floor is referred to as the 4th floor. In the UK and other countries, where the ground floor is followed by the first floor, this system will feel more familiar. In France, the ground level is called the rez-de-chaussée (ground floor), making the first floor the one above it. It’s helpful to know this quirky system when navigating French buildings—or climbing stairs!

I could just picture the sprightly nonagenarian and her daily aller-retour on the central staircase. I love these examples of gumption and fortitude, whether from the venerable like the 92-year-old upstairs, or the young, like Ana, who can’t wait to make a dent in this renovation with a sledgehammer.

Making our way back through the hallway, we found a lively crémaillère underway. My brother-in-law Jacques and Ana were back in the kitchen, discussing which wall would come down, as well as drywall options—something Jacques specializes in.

In the living room, surrounded by the young couple's closest friends, ma belle-sœur Cécile and I helped ourselves to Ana's quiche maison. There were no chairs and the only furniture was a fold-out plastic table where the buffet, including une tarte aux pommes, several boxed pizzas, and some homemade bread was set. Noticing a few small gifts on the table, I wished I’d brought more than bread and toilet paper (le PQ seemed like a good idea, given the lack of supplies this first night). But this was really only a premier coup de clé, just hours after la signature chez le notaire, and not an official crémaillère. There would be plenty of time to find just the right cadeau—perhaps a lovely tapis to soften all the echoing. For now, though, it was enough to stand in this new space, surrounded by family, friends, the scent of homemade pie in the air, and the clickety-clack of dogs' paws marking their approval as little Izzy the beagle and Loca the French bulldog/Jack Russel bounded through the apartment.

Toasting to Max and Ana’s new beginning, it felt magical how a simple set of keys could unlock so much more than a door. It had opened a new chapter—a place for laughter, shared meals, and the dreams these two tourtereaux continue to build together in their new nest between the sea and still-blossoming hills above.

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Purple bruyère, or heather, fading to amber this time of year

In Max's previous apartment, Ana with flowers and Loca, the French bulldog/Jack Russell mix

In the heart of town, just across from the Tourist Office, colorful buildings echo the rich hues of autumn leaves, while the real estate office entices passersby with apartments and houses for sale or for rent.

COMMENTS
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FRENCH VOCABULARY

Audio File: Listen to Jean-Marc pronouce the French words in this story

la crémaillère = housewarming party
la Route des Crêtes = Crest road
la bruyère = heather
la fenêtre = window
la chambre d'amis = guestroom
le pin parasol = umbrella pine
l'oursin (m) = sea urchin
le déménagement = the house move
même pas peur = not even scared (a playful or defiant expression to show bravery)
Je vais attaquer le papier peint = I’m going to tackle the wallpaper
le/la voisin(e) = neighbor
un aller-retour = round trip 
la belle-soeur = sister-in-law
la quiche maison = homemade quiche
la tarte aux pommes = apple tart
le PQ (papier toilette) = toilet paper
le premier coup de clef = first turn of the key
la signature chez le notaire = the signing at the notary’s office
le cadeau = gift
le tapis = rug 
les tourtereaux = lovebirds

*In France, the ground floor is considered "0," so the "4th floor" is actually the 5th floor in American and English numbering systems.

THANKS/REMERCIEMENTS
With sincere appreciation to the following readers for their continued support over the years:

Michèle J. 
Bill and Mary E.

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