Bubbles in Barcelona: Enjoy the story of our father-daughters’ Mediterranean reunion in today's entry “Papa Chéri.”
TODAY’S WORD: PAPA CHÉRI
Sweet Dad, Darling Dad
A DAY IN A FRENCH LIFE by Kristi Espinasse
It’s 4:15 a.m., and I’ve just hugged my sister, Heidi, goodbye. She is on her way home to Denver. In another three hours, it will be time to send off our other sister, Kelley, and our dad, who will fly back to Seattle. We have just spent nine days together, laughing, reminiscing, and toasting to this collective effort to be together once again—and the sunny Mediterranean was the ideal backdrop for our family reunion at sea!
After our dad launched the idea of a father-daughter voyage a few years ago, it was our little sister who tracked down the ideal seven-day séjour. Kelley, a flight attendant, learned about Azamara cruises thanks to her colleague Susie, who is experienced in les croisières. Being cruise novices, we weren’t sure what to expect, but since our goal was to spend time together and celebrate Dad’s upcoming 83rd birthday, we didn’t really care about perfection—though that’s exactly what we got!
Our Mediterranean itinerary began in Spain and stopped at ports along the south of France. While it may seem strange to go port-hopping so close to home (Collioure, Marseille, Toulon, Sanary-sur-Mer, Nice, Monaco—and even Ajaccio are familiar spots), I appreciated my family’s willingness to travel in my direction. My Dad was hesitant, but agreed to traverse three international airports, security, customs, and the rest. He was accompanied all the way by a first-class flight attendant—Kelley—which made the deal a little sweeter.
There in Barcelona, before boarding Azamara’s 700-passenger ship, Onward, my sister Heidi and I waited our turn in line to check our bags. Ahead of us stood a tall, beautiful blonde and a distinguished gentleman who could have been her father. That’s because he was her father—only onlookers could easily make the wrong assumption! We needed to have T-shirts printed to clear up any confusion. One would read “That’s my Dad” (with a large arrow) and the other, “That’s my daughter —>.” On second thought, why not have Dad’s T-shirt read “Sugar Daddy” and give those accidental gawkers something to gossip about! Given the range of characters aboard our ship, there was no shortage of misconceptions, and we enjoyed every minute of people-watching—and making our own colorful conclusions.
After checking our bags and going through security, we boarded the cruise ship and headed straight to lunch, poolside. Incidentally, poolside would be the only part of the ship we’d easily recognize, as we never did figure out exactly where we were on the 181-meter-long, multi-storied vessel. To borrow a line from our sister, “Passengers tend to check their brains with their bags…” Kelley means that tenderly, as that’s what vacation is all about: relaxing the mind.
With seven days ahead of us, we had plenty of time to orient ourselves. Though I still can’t tell you whether these places were bow, starboard, port, or stern side, here are the spots we frequented most: the Cabaret Room (for evening entertainment, including Disco Night and Bingo), the Den (for the piano bar), the walking/jogging track for daily exercise (and a spectacular early morning view of the latest port), the library, and the various eateries.
Every morning, we began with breakfast at Windows Café. The selection was vast—from le saumon fumé to pancakes—it was, as the French say, l’embarras du choix, overwhelming! Each night we dined at Discoveries Restaurant, and it was as good as the fine dining (five floors up) we experienced the first night. Lobster, filet mignon, crab cakes, lamb… the selection was gastronomique. Everything was cooked to order and delicious. Located near two onboard boutiques, the Mosaic Café was my favorite stop for a twice-daily latté and les gourmandises (cookies, carrot cake, lemon tart). There was even an array of dainty tea sandwiches. Ordering whatever you desire felt like being Charlie in The Chocolate Factory. On this cruise ship, everything is included—even le pourboire! My conscience was rattled at every meal, but the waiters insisted waste was dealt with ecologically (if not geographically. In a perfect world all the untouched food would be packed up at delivered fresh to the ports for immediate redistribution).
The flower market in Nice
Our room being located above the bow, we were shaken awake that first morning by the lowering of a massive anchor! We dressed, had breakfast, and took a tender off the boat to reach our first destination: Port Vendres. Just in front of the tourist office, we stepped onto Le Petit Train, heading towards Collioure. The weather was so sunny and warm, people were swimming in the sparkling cove—in October!
Cathedrale de la Major in Marseille
We made it back to the boat for lunch and a little siesta, followed by drinks and dinner. We repeated this agreeable schedule daily (except in Marseille, where we met up with Jackie for a private shopping tour and lunch near Le Vieux Port. Aunt Heidi and Aunt Kelley were delighted to see their nièce, but Grandpa stayed on the boat, nursing a slight cold. He would gladly catch up with his granddaughter later in the week).
Kelley, me, Heidi at a café in the bustling port of Toulon
As for catching up, on this trip my sisters were on a sentimental mission: to make up for lost time. Heidi and I grew up in the Arizona desert, while Kelley was born and raised in Washington State. Beginning when Kelley was a teenager, we three gathered whenever possible, but a geographical distance made it challenging. Now, in mid-life, here we were, together again and taking enough pictures to crash our dad’s phone. We may not have a family picture or Christmas card from bygone days but, ouistiti! there was no stopping us now.
“Here, let me help you with your hair,” Heidi said one evening, offering me a salon-worthy blowout. She had this amazing brush and, after enough hints, she gifted it to me just to shut me up! Like teenagers, we shared each other’s stuff and savoir-faire, as siblings do. Kelley offered us each a trousse de toilette, filled with lotions and potions and we all giggled when Dad chimed in, telling us how much he enjoyed the eye mask. We had to give Dad credit for managing to participate in all our girly conversations, though he drew the line at window shopping, or “lécher les vitrines” as the French say (literally “licking windows”). We could spend hours in antique stores and boutiques at every port.
During the cruise, we each reveled in one-on-one time with Dad. While my sisters enjoyed father-daughter conversations on the sundeck, I relished our indoor tête-à-têtes, always tender and amusante. Over coffee with Dad at the Mosaic Café, we were talking about tap water when Dad casually mentioned he was drinking from the bathroom sink in his cabin. “Dad!” I cautioned, “You can’t do that!”
“Sure I can. I drink tap water all the time.”
I called the barista over to explain why this was a bad idea, given how much bleach they use to treat seawater. Dad allowed the young man to elaborate before replying, “Well, it may have some imperfection... but it’s not poisonous imperfection! I’ll stick to the cabin water!”
Speaking of cabins—or “staterooms”—Dad and Kelley shared one with twin beds, while Heidi and I were one floor below in a near-identical layout. Everything was comfortable except the temperature… and so began the thermostat wars. My sisters, with their Antarctic leanings, would’ve been better climate companions for each other. Dad and I prefer heat, so when the girls were sleeping, we turned up the dials!
In the artsy town of Collioure
One night, on our way up to the Atlas Bar on the 10th floor for our evening apéro—“Parisians” (champagne cocktails) for them, Perrier for moi—an elegant couple entered the elevator. Dad, captivated by the woman’s beaded jacket, flashed me a mischievous look before swiping at a string of dangling beads on the back. Unbeknownst to the glamorous fashionista and her civilized companion, the beads swayed innocently. I almost died!
“Dad!!!” was our not-so-indignant response to every mischievous word or deed coming from our papa chéri.
One particularly poignant evening balanced out these daily shenanigans. Over dinner, we asked Dad about his time in the Air Force, when we were with him in the Philippines, after he married Mom and adopted Heidi. He told us very little about the Vietnam War, but his visible sadness spoke volumes. As we quietly contemplated Dad’s words, a passenger from a nearby table appeared. “Thank you, Sir, for your service,” she said, simply. There followed a cosmic lull: time stood still. Next I knew my sisters had tears in their eyes. I felt a ball form in my throat imagining the full impact of war—on those targeted and those sent out to target others. Glancing over at Dad, I saw tears in his eyes for the first time.
In addition to so many tragic losses, there was the fallout among families, too. As Kelley dried her tears, I reminded her of something our Mom (Heidi’s and mine) often says when we feel sadness about the breakup of our family. According to Jules, “If it wasn’t for the divorce, we would have never gotten our precious Kelley!” (who toddled joyfully into this world after Dad remarried and who, all grown up now, became our compass on this trip, handling all the logistics and guiding us through the ports).
That emotional night brought a tender closeness to the rest of our chanceux father-daughter journey. As we disembarked from the ship, we felt a wave of gratitude for the way this time together had fortified our family ties. The sunny ports of the Mediterranean were enchanting, but it was the shared stories, laughter, and meaningful moments with Dad that made our trip shine. We raise our glasses to those memories, now, Tchin! Tchin!—and to our papa chéri.
***
Post Note: Papa chéri in French translates to "sweet dad." You might say our would-be Sugar Daddy T-shirts are fitting after all! :-)
Me, Kelley, Dad, and Heidi. Thanks again, Susie, for recommending this outstanding cruise company. We toasted to you every night--including White Night, which is a tradition onboard. (It was the chance to wear my wedding dress once again!)
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FRENCH VOCABULARY
Audio File: Click here to listen to the French terms below
la croisière = cruise
le séjour = stay
gastronomique = gourmet
la gourmandise = treats
le pourboire = tip
le saumon fumé = smoked salmon
la pâtisserie = pastry, cake
Le Petit Train = the Little Train
le Vieux Port = the Old Port
la nièce = niece
ouistiti! = say cheese!
la trousse de toilette = toiletry kit
le tête-à-tête = one-on-one conversation
amusante = funny
le barista = a person who serves coffee in a coffee bar
lécher les vitrines = window shopping (literally "lick the windows")
chanceux = lucky
l’apéro (m) = pre-dinner drink
moi = me
papa chéri= sweet Dad, darling Dad
chanceux = lucky
tchin! tchin! = cheers
REMERCIEMENTS
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You can see our ship in the distance, off the shore of Collioure
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